TOXIC BEAUTY

Daltons.. how does that matter when choosing ingredients you allow on your body? How to understand absorption of chemicals and their dangers.

One of human skin's main properties is to be a physicochemical barrier to the environment. It protects us from the environment and stops large molecules from entering our body. There is now however more understanding about how smaller molecules can penetrate the dermal layers.

Daltons are the Molecular weights of popular skincare and haircare ingredients.

Here is a list of popular skincare ingredients and their molecular weights:

Glycerin: 92 Dalton

Ethanol: 46 Dalton

Water: 18 Dalton

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: 408 Dalton

Lactic Acid: 90 Dalton

L Ascorbic Acid: 176 Dalton

Retinol: 286 Dalton

Retinol Palmitate: 524 Dalton

Phenoxyethanol: 138 Dalton

Source: https://realizebeauty.wordpress.com/2017/03/27/cosmetic-science/

Phenoxyethanol has a relatively low molecular weight, and therefore can be absorbed by skin.

Understanding Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol is a molecule that is synthetically manufactured. It is the most popular preservative for skincare products. If you start looking at products on shelves or in your bathroom cabinet, you might be surprised how many products have it on their ingredient list.

It is considered an irritant by the Library of Public Medicine, highlighted for its toxicity to respiratory system in high dose. Here is an extract of its safety data sheet:

Source: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/2-Phenoxyethanol

Typically, phenoxyethanol's concentration in skincare products is around 1%.

Did you know that water represents about 90% of what makes skincare products? This leaves 10% for active ingredients (like vitamin C, retinol...) and non-active ingredients (like thickeners, polymers...).

To understand a product formula, it is important to remove water from it. It gives you the true product make-up and its potency. By doing so, we have a different picture: Phenoxyethanol is likely to be around 10% of what makes a skincare formula.

If you speak to any skincare formulator, it is not a small amount.

If your skincare products have phenoxyethanol and you use them morning and night, your skin is constantly absorbing phenoxyethanol.

In summary:

Phenoxyethanol has a molecular weight under 500 Dalton, which means it is absorbed into skin.

It is an irritant and considered toxic to skin and health.

It is in higher proportion than it seems in skincare products.

It is present in the majority of skincare and body care products.

Most of us constantly have been feeding our skin with the toxic preservative for most of our lives.

Oils ability to penetrate hair fiber…

"Coconut oil, being a triglyceride of lauric acid (principal fatty acid), has a high affinity for hair proteins, and because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, it's able to penetrate inside the hair shaft."

"Mineral oil, being a hydrocarbon, has no affinity for proteins and therefore is not able to penetrate and yield better results.

"In the case of sunflower oil, although it is a triglyceride of linoleic acid, because of its bulky structure – due to the presence of double bonds– it does not penetrate the fibre, consequently resulting in no favourable impact on protein loss."

okay okay; WHAT TO AVOID:

1. Sulfates

Sulfates are cost-effective cleansing agents that are commonly found in shampoos because they are extremely effective at dissolving oil, leaving your scalp and hair with that squeaky clean feeling. When applied to wet hair, sulfate shampoos will lather up nicely with a foaming effect that finds its way into every greasy haired girl’s heart. Sulfates are the reason why we’ve come to associate foaming lather with being clean. Although sulfates are considered safe to use in hair products, we recommend for you to opt for sulfate-free shampoos instead. Sulfates are an aggressive chemical that is extremely drying to your hair as it strips away all your hair and scalp of its natural oils. Overtime, your hair will weaken, and end up looking dull, and become very prone to damage, breakage, and split ends.

Common sulfates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)

2. Mineral Oil

Mineral oil is a cost-efficient, moisturizing oil that is used in many different cosmetic formulations. When used in hair treatments, mineral oil has the ability to restore shine, reduce tangles, and prevent split ends. While mineral oil works well as a protective, glossy coating for the hair, it can’t actually penetrate the hair fibre and therefore won’t be effective at treating existing damage. If you are looking for an oil that will be more effective at preventing the loss of essential hair proteins, then we suggest looking for conditioners or leave-in products that contain Coconut Oil instead, as plant oils generally offer far more additional benefits than mineral oil. Better yet, opt for a jar of pure, 100% Coconut Oil as it acts as a moisturizer for your hair and is actually absorbed deep into your hair unlike mineral oil. Whether your hair is damaged or relatively undamaged, Coconut Oil is one of the most effective natural ingredients for maintaining healthy hair by preventing protein loss.

3. Parabens

Parabens are preservatives used to prevent the growth of bacteria in your cosmetic formulations. In 2004, a study found large amounts of parabens in the tumours of cancer patients, however, researchers were unable to confirm why or how this happened. Despite there being no further research that proves parabens in cosmetics directly cause cancer, we still can’t conclusively make the statement that they don’t. While science is rarely (if ever) conclusive, most of the existing research on the cosmetic use of parabens tells us that they are completely safe to use. But if you’d rather be safe than sorry, then look for hair products that are paraben-free.

Parabens are used in over 22,000 cosmetics as preservatives, and are known to cause endocrine disruption, including male reproductive toxicity and various estrogenic activity in studies.

Butylparaben 194 Daltons

Ethylparaben 166 Daltons

Methylparaben 152 Daltons

Propylparaben 180 Daltons

4. Diethanolamine (DEA) and Triethanolamine (TEA)

DEA and TEA are emulsifiers However, both DEA and TEA may combine and react with other chemicals and form Nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA), which is a cancer-causing agent. According to research, the human skin can easily absorb NDEA leading to various skin problems.

What to avoid: Any chemicals with a name containing “DEA,” “TEA,” and “MEA.”

5. Synthetic Fragrances

Fragrances are known to lead to a range of skin reactions, whether that be redness, itching, hives, or dermatitis. When “fragrance” is listed on the ingredients list, proceed with caution. The label does not legally have to list what that compound is actually composed of, which means there are often an array of potential irritants hidden in any artificially fragranced formulation. More than 95 percent of the chemicals in synthetic fragrances are derived from petrochemicals. While fragranced hair products are undoubtedly experience-enhancing, you may want to look for fragrance-free shampoos and hair masks if you are prone to scalp sensitivity. On the other hand, you can still use fragranced products on the ends of your hair without too much concern for irritation.

Also-known-as: fragrance, parfum

6. Formaldehyde

Formaldehyde is an ingredient that is currently under investigation for its potential safety concerns. It is a vapour that can be found in hair products for smoothing, growing, and/or cleansing. Traces of this ingredient can also be found in other ingredients (i.e. cleansing agents like laurel sulfate and, keratin treatment ingredients like methylenemethilene glycol or glyoxylic acid), wherein it may have been used as a preservative. When used in very small concentrations, formaldehyde is considered safe to use in cosmetics.

When formaldehyde is used to formulate other compounds, it does not legally need to be listed on the ingredients list — which means even products that are marketed as “formaldehyde-free” may still have the ability to have potentially harmful effects when used under certain conditions.



7. Coal Tar

Coal tar-derived dyes are used to give artificial colour to cosmetics, including hair dyes. These petroleum-derived colours can contain a variety of other chemicals and metals like aluminum substrate, which have been linked to cancer and brain damage.

Also-known-as: P-phenylenediamine, C.I. (followed by a five digit number), FD&C or D&C (followed by a colour name and number)

8. Silicones

Many people have a love/hate relationship with the use of silicones in their beauty products. When used in conditioners and styling products, silicones act like a protective seal by coating the strands and leave your hair with a glossy, smooth finish. Silicones are emollient slip agents that are great for locking in moisture and giving the hair an instantaneous (but artificial) silky, shine. Silicones will weigh your hair down, and since it adds an exterior seal to our hair cuticles, it prevents moisture from penetrating the hair shaft which will end up drying out your hair overtime. However, if you are looking for a longer term solution to nourish your dry, damaged hair, then using a conditioner, hair mask or serum that contains cold-pressed, plant-derived oils will give you healthier, luscious locks over time. Oils that are great for using in your hair include Coconut Oil, moroccan argan oil, and marula oil. Look for hair products that have these plant oils higher up on the ingredients list and avoid ones that contain primarily silicones if you want more than just an instant fix.

Common silicones: Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone,, Phenyl trimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane.

9. Phthalates

A wide rage of ingredients are classified as phthalates and each type will have its own benefits and regulations. In cosmetic formulations, phthalates are often used to dissolve other ingredients, improve texture, and can be added to artificial fragrance recipes to make the scent of the product wear longer throughout the day. The current research suggests that exposure to one phthalate, DEHP (also-known-as bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate), can be harmful to human health, and luckily, the Canadian government has already banned its use in cosmetics. Under current law in the US however, manufacturers are not required to list phthalates in their labels. Any item simply listed as “fragrance” in hair care products usually contains phthalates.

While other phthalates may still be found in your hair products, no conclusive studies have shown that they’ll impose any health risks. If you prefer to avoid phthalates altogether, we suggest looking for hair products that are labelled fragrance and phthalate-free — otherwise you can always contact the beauty company to confirm the ingredient details.

10. Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD)

PPD is the chemical compound that is found in most permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes from the drugstore or salon. When PPD comes in contact with the skin, it is known to potentially cause allergic reactions and increase UV sensitivity. While PPD can still be found in most traditional hair dyes, it should definitely be avoided by anyone who is prone to scalp sensitivity. Be sure to follow the instructions carefully and do a test patch first.

These toxic ingredients are found in almost all drugstore hair products and even in higher-end, top salon hair products! While some products claim natural benefits, we urge you to take matters into your own hands, do your research, and be sure that the products you use on your precious tresses meet your standards.

11.Triclosan

Yes, you read that right. Even though tricolsan was banned in 2016 from antibacterial soaps, it is still allowed in toothpaste, shampoos, and deodorant! This antibacterial ingredient is an endocrine disruptor that can lead to cancer, affect fetal development, and much more.

What to avoid: Irgasan DP-300, lexol 300, Ster-Zac, cloxifenolum, and triclocarban.

12. Methylchloroisothiazolinone

CMIT is another scary preservative added in shampoos. It can cause lung toxicity and other body toxicities. It is widely used in several cosmetics to prevent the product from getting spoiled after you’ve opened the bottle.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON THE LABEL: Methylisothiazolinone (MIT): 2-methyl-4-isothiazoline-3-one, Neolone 950 preservative, MI, OriStar MIT and Microcare MT. Methylchloroisothiazolinone (CMIT): 5-Chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one and MCI.