PEG’s in hair and skincare

What are they?

PEG compounds are substances made with Polyethylene Glycol. They are very controversial ingredients in the cosmetics industry. PEGs are used for a variety of reasons: viscosity controlling, solubility, moisturizing, etc.

NOTE : Polyethylene Glycol should not be confused with Polyethylene (PE) which is one of the most used forms of plastic, together with PP (Polypropylene). Neither should it be confused with Ethylene Glycol.

PEGs were originally petroleum based but they can also be created from natural sources.

Are they dangerous?

In themselves, PEG compounds are not dangerous. Most of them are well tolerated by the skin and are generally considered safe. Even ingestion is possible (in reasonable amounts) as they can be used in laxatives.

The problem with the PEGs lies somewhere else.

Pollution: The process to create PEGs involves ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane; substances that are not only very dangerous but also strong pollutants.Contamination: It is feared that toxic impurities from the industrial process might leave traces in the PEG compounds that would be later absorbed into the skin; especially since PEGs are absorbed very well by the derma.

For these reasons, PEGs are not accepted in certified organic cosmetics in Europe.

Are there alternatives?

Yes there are.

In some cases (cleansing formulations, for example), they can be substituted with polyglyceryl- ingredients (which can be accepted in eco certified cosmetic formulas). Among other properties, these ingredients will allow oils to become water-soluble.

Otherwise, natural ingredients can be combined to fill in for the PEGs multiple other uses.

Everything you need to know about PEGs

You have probably noticed that many of cosmetics and personal care products you use have different types of PEGs among ingredients. PEG, which is the abbreviation of polyethylene glycol, is not a definitive chemical entity in itself, but rather a mixture of compounds, of polymers that have been bonded together. Polyethylene is the most common form of plastic, and when combined with glycol, it becomes a thick and sticky liquid.

PEGs are almost often followed by a number, for example PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-100 and so on. This number represents the approximate molecular weight of that compound. Typically, cosmetics use PEGs with smaller molecular weights. The lower the molecular weight, the easier it is for the compound to penetrate the skin. Often, PEGs are connected to another molecule. You might see, for example, PEG 100 stearate as an ingredient. This means that the polyethylene glycol polymer with an approximate molecular weight of 100 is attached chemically to stearic acid.

In cosmetics, PEGs function in three ways: as emollients (which help soften and lubricate the skin), as emulsifiers (which help water-based and oil-based ingredients mix properly), and as vehicles that help deliver other ingredients deeper into the skin.

What effect do PEGs have on your skin?

Polyethylene glycol compounds have not received a lot of attention from consumer groups but they should. The most important thing to know about PEGs is that they have a penetration enhancing effect, the magnitude of which is dependent upon a variety of variables. These include: both the structure and molecular weight of the PEG, other chemical constituents in the formula, and, most importantly, the overall health of the skin.

PEGs of all sizes may penetrate through injured skin with compromised barrier function. So it is very important to avoid products with PEGs if your skin is not in best condition. Skin penetration enhancing effects have been shown with PEG-2 and PEG-9 stearate.

This penetration enhancing effect is important for three reasons: 1) If your skin care product contains a bunch of other undesirable ingredients, PEGs will make it easier for them to get down deep into your skin. 2) By altering the surface tension of the skin, PEGs may upset the natural moisture balance. 3) PEGs are not always pure, but often come contaminated with a host of toxic impurities

Impurities and other PEG risks

According to a report in the International Journal of Toxicology by the cosmetic industry’s own Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) committee, impurities found in various PEG compounds include ethylene oxide; 1,4-dioxane; polycyclic aromatic compounds; and heavy metals such as lead, iron, cobalt, nickel, cadmium, and arsenic. Many of these impurities are linked to cancer.

PEG compounds often contain small amounts of ethylene oxide. Ethylene oxide (found in PEG-4, PEG-7, PEG4-dilaurate, and PEG 100) is highly toxic — even in small doses — and was used in World War I nerve gas. Exposure to ethylene glycol during its production, processing and clinical use has been linked to increased incidents of leukemia as well as several types of cancer.

Finally, there is 1,4-dioxane (found in PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-32, PEG-75, PEG-150, PEG-14M, and PEG-20M), which, on top of being a known carcinogen, may also combine with atmospheric oxygen to form explosive peroxides — not exactly something you want going on your skin.

Even though responsible manufacturers do make efforts to remove these impurities (1,4-dioxane that can be removed from cosmetics through vacuum stripping during processing without an unreasonable increase in raw material cost), the cosmetic and personal care product industry has shown little interest in doing so. Surprisingly, PEG compounds are also used by natural cosmetics companies.